Ferran Centelles: Calatayud – worth checking out!

Ferran Centelles has just published his article on Calatayud in Jancis Robinson’s Purple Pages and we have to say we’re quite pleased!

You need to subscribe to the Purple Pages to read the whole article but we’d like to share the tasting notes given to our wines here:

El Escocés Volante, Manda Huevos Doble Yema NV Vino de España  17.5/20

Macabeo. Consisting of a blend of 2015 (30 months on its lees without malolactic fermentation) and 2016 (18 months on its lees with malolactic fermentation). Produced within Calatayud but marketed as a Vino de España. Aged in used oak and concrete egg.  
There is a remarkable touch of fresh fruit and a mineral expression. On the nose, it is refined with flinty and stony minerality. The palate is deep and sharp, displaying citrus notes and a yeasty aspect. It is a great white wine, hedonistic and really expressive. I would love to cellar it at least two or three years. Personally, I love it! (FC)

14.3%

Drink 2018-2022

El Escocés Volante, Manda Huevos con Pieles 2017 Vino de España  16/20

Single-vineyard Macabeo without added sulphites. The wine is kept on the skins for seven months at 15–16 ºC and is protected with inert gases and dry ice. No clarification or filtration. Produced within the Calatayud region but labelled as a Vino de España. 700 bottles.  
This is a remarkable unsulphured wine that retains its youthful colour intensity. The nose is very open but has great depth. A touch of dry almonds and smashed white fruits. Is has a mouth-coating texture, very refined and quite pure. It is an absolutely clean and perfect natural wine. I am surprised. (FC)

14.3%

Drink 2018-2020

El Escocés Volante, Es Lo Que Hay Viñas Viejas Garnacha 2016 Calatayud   17/20

Old vine Garnacha (75–100 years old), planted on slate soils similar to those found in Priorat (licorella). Fermented in concrete tank. No oak.
The wine shows dark plums, cherries, spices and pepper. It is medium bodied but it has an astonishing freshness, almost salty, and real savouriness. It is a lingering and refreshing style. Slimline Garnacha wine! Quite delightful. (FC)

15%

Drink 2019-2025

El Escocés Volante, El Mondongo 2015 Vino de España 18.5/20

Mostly old-vine Garnacha blended with Syrah, Moristel and Bobal (also known as Provechón here). The wine comes from five different blended plots surrounded by shrubs of Mediterranean herbs (especially  Satureja montana –  winter savory). Fermented and aged in cement eggs and tinajas (clay vessels).
The nose is unbelievably herbal and spiced, very complex bouquet (thyme, rosemary, medicinal herbs). The fruit is below the herbal layers; it has an elegant and fragrant expression. This is a classy Garnacha style – fresh, delicate and far removed from the orthodox powerful style. The fruit and the tannins are extremely mellowed. It is a burgundian style of Garnacha. Like entering a herbal remedy store! This is at the pinnacle of delicacy for Garnacha. Amazing! (FC)

14.5%

Drink 2018-2025

El Escocés Volante, El Cismático 2016 Calatayud 17.5/20

Century old Garnacha from 13 different plots located in the highest areas within the Calatayud appellation. The wine spends 13 months in 650-litre barrels.
The wine is generous in its oak charge and shows intense aromas of spices (wormwood), plums, herbs and vanilla. It is very expressive. On the palate, it is firm, rich and concentrated with remarkable fruit and fresh flavours. Good cellaring ahead. It has a lingering sensation and it is driven by very well-judged acidity. It is still a baby but very promising. (FC)

 14.5%

Drink 2018-2030

El Escocés Volante, Parcela El Plano Cariñena 2017 Calatayud 17.5/20

100% Cariñena. This is a very short vintage due to spring frost. No oak used. Grapes retained high levels of acidity.  
The wine is spicy and floral (violets), it has a clean remarkable nose, very varietal and keeping the fruit intensity. The wine is very vivid, it really lingers through the palate, and the tannins are firm but of superb quality. It is very fresh and expressive, well defined and lingering elegantly through the palate. Exceptionally stimulating Cariñena wine. (FC)

 13.6%

Drink 2019-2025

El Escocés Volante, Dos Dedos de Frente 2016 Calatayud  17/20

100% Syrah planted at 950 m altitude. Aged in used French oak barrels for 14 months.
This is a powerful wine, showing intense spiciness, dark fruit, prunes, black cherries, cloves, liquorice and chocolate. The wine is rich and complex, very ripe in terms of fruit and texture but with remarkable cutting acidity. A really well-made and savoury wine. (FC)

 14%

Drink 2018-2025

 El Escocés Volante, Manga del Brujo 2015 Calatayud 16/20

Garnacha, Tempranillo and Syrah. The Tempranillo and Syrah see short oak ageing.
The nose shows ripe black fruit, a herbal character and a touch of sweet spices. On the palate it is richly flavoured, the tannins are really concentrated and it has a rounded delineation. It is powerful and intense, although the tannins are slightly firm right now. Solid body and freshness. The back palate has bitter notes but it is quite refreshing. (FC)

 15%

Drink 2018-2022

El Escocés Volante, Manda Huevos Caña Andrea 2016 Calatayud 16/20

The wine comes from two different plots based on really old Garnacha (1908), with some Bobal, Garnacha Blanca and Moristel mixed within the vineyard. Open-vat fermentation, malocatic took place with the skins protected by dry ice. 4,500 bottles.  
The wine is slightly closed and needs time to breathe. It shows complex aromas: floral, red fruits, liquorice, meaty, earthy and peppery. Complex nose! The tannins are sweet but still to be mellowed, the palate really rounded. It has a remarkable fruit expression and a touch of cloves. Lovely complexity. (FC)

 14.5%

Drink 2019-2025

El Escocés Volante, Papa Luna 2015 Calatayud 15/20

75% Garnacha from old vines, 20% Syrah and 5% Mazuelo. The Syrah is subjected to  doble pastawinemaking. Unoaked but aged on lees. El Escocés Volante is Norrel Robertson MW’s personal venture in Calatayud.  
Tasted blind. The wine is really spiced showing cloves, creamy oak, plum jam and figs. Beginning to show mature notes and earthy character. On the palate, it is dense and rounded, with bitter notes at the back palate. Probably the most austere of the Escocés Volante wines. (FC)

 15%

Drink 2017-2020